Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vertical

These wines were tasted at an event hosted by the Earl & Countess of Elgin, Broomhall, Fife, on behalf of Pol Roger UK

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1996

Colour - pale gold with glimmering yellow edges.
Nose - heady, with fresh apple, hints of apricot and mango touched by a bit of toast and caramel.
Palate - luscious, fresh fruit, well structured - restrained and refined on the edges. There's a touch of the exotic and superb underlying richness. The mousse is vigorous but elegant.This will be incredible with time, but is delicious now.
****(*)

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1995
Colour - greener on the edges than the '96 - and disgorged only 4 1/2 months before it.
Nose - subdued. Notes of brie and grape skins with a hint of spice, but not open.
Palate - sleeping. The fruit and secondaries are dumb at the moment, making the mousse a bit overpowering. Needs 2 years to wake up.
**(**?)

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1993
Colour - far deeper gold, maturity here is evident.
Nose - rich, mature notes - the fruit is candied and there are wild mushrooms on toast as well.
Palate - very nice depth and richness, the nose follows through, but ageing quickly. The finish comes to a bit of a halt. Drink soon and with food.
***

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1990
Colour - Slightly lighter than the '93, with excellent brilliance and lively bubbles.
Nose - still very fresh, with apples and a bit of citrus. On the edges the age presents itself; toasty, mushroomy notes.
Palate - late adolescence, a bit drowsy - still fresh and vibrant enough for oysters, but with a pleasant richness that would suit foie gras. It's lovely, but not yet at its potential. Lay down for another 2 or 3 years.
***(**)

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1988 (from Jeroboam)
Colour - deceptively youthful, bright polished gold.
Nose - honey-fried mushrooms with fresh fritter batter & candied fruits.
Palate - exceptional. Lovely pastel fruit - gleeful and moreish with exceptional richness, though I don't think the depth of the nose has been released yet. Very sexy and moreish though. Would have happily drunk it all night.
****(*) - It would be 5 stars flat out, but I really think it's going to get better.

Tasted 5/9/2006 at Broomhall

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