Colour: Tarnished brass with brilliant flecks of gold. Slow bubbles rise lazily from the bottom of the glass. A wine relaxed in its maturity.
Nose: A bit heady and dare I say past it? Quiet notes of mushroom but there's something a bit too aged about it.
Palate: Quite remarkable considering the nose. Rich, butter-fried wild mushrooms with hints of caramel and butterscotch. This is rich and mouth-filling and quite fantastic. Sadly, the finish shows too much age with some strange acidity kick-back coming through, though this may have been contained by food. When good, exceptional, but there are balance issues.
***(**) Probably 5 stars 10 years ago
Tasted 14/4/06 at Naughton